Introspections along the Indus,......
Anna has been resting up for a few days at a beautiful guesthouse with lovely gardens in Gilgit, recovering from a smog induced cough. Mark, Joe and i just completed a four day trek in the upper Naltar valley. Absolutely stunning alpine scenery. Hanging glaciers, massive rock spires, succulent pine forests (very rare for here) and the odd ice blue glacial lake. A good few days on the trail, toning up the legs and working out the lungs in preperation for higher altitudes! Can't show you any photos unfortunately - lucky enough to access a computer here, let alone post pictures via it.
Wow, where to start? I'm actually lucky to have been able to leave India. I threw my India disembarkation card some time ago thinking it wasn't important. The immigration crew at the border weren't happy with me kept saying "big problem madam, big problem,...." and wouldn't give me a new form to fill out. After many such statements, then asking me what my occupation was and me asking the right question "what to do?" they finally handed over the new form for me to fill out - halleluah. Next came the bag search which was a bit strange as we were leaving the country and upon entry didn't have to declare anything or have any luggage checked.
So far I've experiencd less hassle here and more friendliness in Pakistan than in India. The NZ embassy advised not to come to Pakistan at all due to extreme risk - hello, risk of what??? And at the same time for me as a woman, there is a more subtle, pervasive and supressive energy here.
I'm currently in Gilget in the Northern area of the Karakoram Highway in Pakistan. The lads have gone off into the hills trekking. I decided to stay put and rest for a few days at the Mountain Refuge with a paradise garden with a strong woman / Shakti energy. The last 10 days seem like a dream / whirlwind of dirty, hot, sleepless nights in cities. I am actually really exhausted and a bit sick after our most recent 24 hour+ bus journey and am enjoying not moving around. I must say I seem to be the "softie" traveller amongst the group, affirmed by my recent famous quote to Scott, "My kind of travelling is not travelling" - duh!
It's interesting being a woman here and I think most of my observations in this posting will be around this theme. There are hardly any woman out compared to men (I've had an urge to hide out when I'm here) and there are many variations of covering up from the full berka, to head scarf to no head scarf (more in the cities). The only thing that men can really check out is your ankles! Saying all this I haven't had any hassles from men and I am travelling with three males. I met a Canadian woman travelling on her own here and she said it has been a really difficult experience for her as many men perceive her as a prostitute.
Since September 11 the tourist numbers have gone down a lot in Pakistan. Especially here. To make ends meet the family running the Mountain Refuge have local woman from the hills stay for 9 months a year, to study at the local University. Sheshzadi, the mama, is 28 years old and is pregnant with her fifth child, after which will be her last. When she delivers her baby, it will be at an all woman's hospital (no men allowed, staff or family). Marriages are arranged here and most woman won't get to see their husband until the wedding. Sheshzadi's husband is really nice and I thought he was her father, woops! With their four little girls and the young woman students there are more woman about in a small space than I've see so far in Parkistan. The family are Ishmali Muslims, and are much less strict than many Shia's and Sunni's and pretty open in their world view. They have a job balancing Western men staying in a small space with young unmarried Muslim woman. They have to be careful to not risk a scandle (as simple as the family of one of the woman not being happy with her interacting with a western man) which could ruin the reputation of their business and a woman's marriage-ability.
So as a Western woman I am incredibly fortunate and have so many opportunities it's not funny. Thank goodness you couldn't arrange a marriage for me Mum and Dad, it would have been disasterous with my Taurian streeeek!!
Much love and hugs to you all,
Anna, Ana, Anahart